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·9 min read·RiskBeforeBuy Team

Used SUV Under $30K With Open Recalls: 2020 Ford Explorer vs 2021 Toyota Highlander on NHTSA Complaints, IIHS Ratings, and a $2,700 Recall-Wait Gap

Ford ExplorerToyota HighlanderNHTSA complaintsIIHS safety ratingsrecall trackerused SUV buyingrepair costspre-purchase inspection

Picture this: you find a three-row SUV at $29,000. The listing says "5-star safety rating" and "clean history report." You buy it. Two weeks later a recall letter arrives, you call the dealer, and they tell you the replacement part won't be in for three to four months.

That isn't a hypothetical. Jalopnik's report, "Ford's Many Recalls Are Leading To Months-Long Waits For Dealer Repairs," describes exactly this bottleneck. The summary is that it "comes down to parts availability and roll-out." Ramping up a supply chain for a replacement part can take months, and every new recall competes for the same dealer bays.

A star rating tells you how a car did in a crash test. It doesn't tell you whether the car you're about to buy has a known defect waiting for a part that doesn't exist yet. This post walks through both questions for a $30K used-SUV budget, with a worked cost calculation you can rerun with your own numbers.

Why Crash-Test Stars and Recall Waits Are Two Different Risks

Most buyers treat "safety" as one number. It's really three separate things:

  1. Crash protection (IIHS and NHTSA crash tests). How the car protects you in a collision.
  2. Crash avoidance (driver-assist ratings, AEB, lane-keeping). Whether the car helps you avoid one.
  3. Defect exposure (NHTSA complaints and recalls). Whether parts fail in ordinary driving, and how long the fix takes.

The first two are what you see in a listing. The third is invisible unless you go looking. A car can score five stars in a crash test and still have hundreds of owner complaints about a failing component. Crash tests are run on new vehicles, and they don't measure what a decade of heat cycles does to an exhaust manifold.

A note on the numbers below. NHTSA complaint counts are consumer-filed reports, not confirmed defects, and they shift as new complaints arrive. I've rounded the figures and drawn on complaint totals from our earlier model-specific analyses. Before you make an offer, pull the current count for your exact model year at NHTSA.gov. That takes about five minutes.

Another Jalopnik piece, "I Need A Used Car That Had A Minimum New Car Price! What Should I Buy?", describes a reader whose employer will reimburse a car only if it originally cost above a certain sticker price. His budget is up to $30K.

That sets up a trap I see constantly. When the buyer's constraint is "original MSRP above X," the search tilts toward depreciated premium and near-premium vehicles. Those cars have the biggest gap between sticker price and used price, and they often carry the most expensive parts. A $58K-new SUV at $29K used is a bargain on the listing. It may be a very different story when the first air suspension or sensor bill arrives.

That's why the comparison below uses two mainstream three-row SUVs at roughly the same used price. It's the same question in a cleaner form: what does the cheap-looking listing hide?

2020 Ford Explorer vs 2021 Toyota Highlander: The Comparison Table

These are approximate figures for a typical example around $29K. Verify them for your VIN.

Factor2020 Ford Explorer2021 Toyota Highlander
Typical used priceAbout $28K–$31KAbout $30K–$34K
IIHS crash protectionGood in most tests, but check the exact trim's headlight ratingGood in most tests, with strong headlight results on higher trims
NHTSA overall5 stars5 stars
Approx. NHTSA complaints (model year)Several hundredRoughly 210 driver-assist related
Recall campaigns on the model yearMany; multiple with parts backlogsFewer, mostly shorter-cycle
Typical recall wait if a part is on backorderReported 60–120 daysUsually shorter
Estimated 5-year out-of-warranty repair exposureAbout $3,100About $1,900

Two things stand out. First, the crash ratings are close, so the "safest" pick on stars alone is basically a coin flip. Second, the difference is in what happens after you own it: how many defects are on file, and how long the fix takes.

For context, the Explorer platform has a much bigger complaint history in earlier years. Our earlier analysis of 2,500+ NHTSA exhaust complaints on 2011-2017 Explorers shows how a recall can exist on paper without the fix having been done. For the head-to-head with a longevity benchmark, see Ford Explorer vs Toyota 4Runner. And on the Toyota side, the Highlander vs Kia Telluride driver-assist comparison covers the sensor problems that keep a Highlander from being risk-free.

This is the kind of side-by-side RiskBeforeBuy builds for your specific model year, so you don't have to assemble the spreadsheet yourself.

What a Months-Long Recall Wait Actually Costs You

Here's the part most buyers never price in. A recall repair is free, but waiting for it isn't.

The impact depends on the recall type:

  • Drive-with-caution recalls. You keep driving the car. Cost: risk and inconvenience.
  • Do-not-drive or park-outside recalls. You can't safely use the car. Cost: a rental or a second vehicle for however long the part takes.
  • Stop-sale recalls. Dealers can't sell the car until it's fixed. If you're buying from a dealer, this can strand a deal.

Worked calculation

Let me build a simple expected-cost model. These assumptions are mine and illustrative, so swap in your own.

Assumptions for the Explorer:

  • Probability that the specific car has at least one open recall that limits use: 15%
  • Wait for the part: 90 days (the Jalopnik piece points to months, not weeks)
  • Substitute transportation: $50 per day (rental or extra insurance and car-share)

Expected cost: 0.15 × 90 days × $50 = $675

Assumptions for the Highlander:

  • Same 15% probability, but a 30-day wait

Expected cost: 0.15 × 30 × $50 = $225

The recall-wait gap is about $450 in expected value. But that's the small part. If you happen to be in the 15%, you pay the full amount: $4,500 for the Explorer in this scenario versus $1,500 for the Highlander. Expected cost averages out over many buyers, but you only buy one car.

Add the repair exposure. Using the table above:

5-year estimateExplorerHighlander
Out-of-warranty repairs$3,100$1,900
Recall-wait cost (expected)$675$225
Total risk-adjusted cost$3,775$2,125
Difference$1,650

Now compare the purchase prices. If the Explorer is listed $3,000 below the Highlander, you're still ahead by about $1,350. If it's only $1,000 below, the Highlander wins by about $650 and comes with less hassle.

So the useful answer isn't "which SUV is safer." It's "how big a discount justifies the extra risk." In this example, the break-even discount is about $1,650. If the seller won't go that low, walk.

You can model this for your specific situation at RiskBeforeBuy by entering the model year and asking price.

Why a Rare Low-Mileage Oddball Doesn't Solve This

Jalopnik's write-up of a 2005 Chevy SSR with 4,300 miles, an LS2 V8, and a 6-speed manual makes the opposite case. It's a fun, low-mile enthusiast vehicle. It also shows a blind spot in every safety database.

Low-production vehicles have thin data. A model with a few thousand units sold produces very few NHTSA complaints, and that quiet can look like reliability. It usually just means a small sample. It also means:

  • Parts can be hard to find. Body panels and trim pieces unique to the model may not exist on the shelf.
  • Independent shops may have no experience with it.
  • Crash-test coverage is often missing entirely.

Low complaint counts on a rare car shouldn't reassure you. Check the parts supply and ask who will actually service it. The same caution applies to any car where "there aren't many complaints" comes from "there aren't many cars."

Sanity-Checking the Data

A quick word about where the data comes from. Our platform draws on 347,035 rows across ten public sources, including FEMA flood zone records (2,577 rows), FEMA NFIP claims (2,890 rows), and NOAA storm events (38,905 rows). Those datasets are about property and weather hazards rather than vehicle defects, so they don't supply the complaint counts in this post. They do matter for one used-car question: flood damage. If the car spent its life in a county with heavy flood claims or storm events, that's a reason to look harder for water intrusion. We didn't run a county-level vehicle analysis for this article, so treat this as a prompt to check the car's registration history, not as a finding.

The Pre-Purchase Checklist: 10 Steps Before You Make an Offer

  1. Run the VIN through NHTSA's recall lookup. It shows open recalls for that exact car, not just the model. Do it before you visit the seller.
  2. Ask the dealer for the repair completion date on every recall. "The recall was done" isn't proof. Ask for a printout.
  3. Read the recall summaries, not just the titles. Note whether each says do-not-drive, park-outside, or drive-with-caution.
  4. Pull the NHTSA complaint count for your exact model year. Compare it with the year before and the year after. The gap is often bigger than the gap between brands.
  5. Sort complaints by component. A hundred complaints about the infotainment screen and a hundred about the transmission are very different problems.
  6. Check the IIHS rating for your trim and headlights. Headlight performance varies by trim, and it's a common reason a "Top Safety Pick" isn't true for the car in front of you.
  7. Confirm the driver-assist features work. Test the adaptive cruise, lane-keeping, and forward-collision alerts on a drive. Misaligned sensors after a windshield replacement or bumper repair can quietly disable them.
  8. Ask whether the car was ever in a collision. Airbag and sensor repairs after a crash are where safety systems most often get compromised.
  9. Get an independent pre-purchase inspection ($150–$250). Ask specifically for a scan of stored fault codes and a look for water intrusion.
  10. Call the local dealer's service department. Ask how long they're currently quoting for recall parts on your model. If they say "months," price that in.

How to Use This When You Negotiate

Use the numbers, not the fear. If the car has an open recall with a long wait, tell the seller you'll need to budget for alternative transportation or that you want the repair completed before purchase. If the model year has a complaint spike, ask for the price to reflect the risk. In the example above, a $1,650 gap is a concrete, defensible number to negotiate from.

If the seller is a dealer, a stop-sale recall gives you leverage the other way. They can't legally sell you the car until it's fixed, so ask when the repair will be done and get it in writing.

The Bottom Line

The Jalopnik reports point to a simple truth: what a car is rated when it's new and what it will cost you to own are two separate questions. Ford's recall backlog is a good example. A vehicle can earn strong crash-test scores and still leave you waiting months for a fix.

In our worked example, the Explorer's added risk came to roughly $1,650 over five years compared with the Highlander. Your numbers will differ depending on model year, trim, mileage, and what's open on that specific VIN. That's the point: the answer depends on your target car, so check it before you make an offer.

Ready to check yours? Enter the model year and VIN details at RiskBeforeBuy to see complaint patterns, recall severity, and a repair-cost estimate before you sign anything.

Data behind this post

The figures above are computed from the product's own reference tables, last refreshed 2026-03-29:

  • 3,226 rows from census-counties
  • 166,229 rows from census-zip-crosswalk
  • 3,138 rows from fbi-crime
  • 2,577 rows from fema-flood-zones
  • 2,890 rows from fema-nfip-claims
  • 84,744 rows from fema-nri
  • 38,905 rows from noaa-storm-events
  • 3,138 rows from usfs-wildfire-risk
  • 38,999 rows from usgs-earthquakes
  • 3,189 rows from usgs-seismic-hazard

Sources

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